Indonesie 2009 part 2 - 1 augustus 2009
Even over Indonesië/Sumatra, alles is waar:
- Saté, verkocht aan de kant van de straat is het lekkerst, maar ook gevaarlijkst. Ik gok salmonella bij 1 op de 5 tentjes.
- Gitaarmuziek, overal spelen jongens gitaar op straat. Niet zeer bedreven maar wel vol overgave. Je kunt je kont niet keren of je struikelt over een gitaar.
- Niet voetbal maar volleybal is populair hier en we zagen tussen de rijstvelden een volleybalveld staan waar men aan het einde van de dag druk een balletje aan het slaan was. In Pulau Wey heb ik met de lokalen gebald en ze kunnen even goed volleyballen als gitaar spelen.
- Apen, apen, apen. Aan de kant van de weg, op een steen, kijkend naar de voorbijgaande auto’s.
- Je eigen straatje schoonvegen is hier een letterlijk tafereel en of je nu in een krot of in een villa woont, je eigen straatje is altijd schoon een aangeveegd. De rommel, zoals bladeren en plastic, wordt vervolgens verbrand in een ijzeren ton wat een enorme giftige walm oplevert en eveneens een dikke wolk. Op Sumatra is het zo erg, begreep ik uit de lonely planet, dat buurland Maleisië geklaagd heeft over de luchtvervuiling door het verbranden van menseigen afval. Je schijnt het dus enkele honderden kilometers verderop nog te kunnen ruiken. Alsof wij tegen de Parijzenaren zeggen dat ze wat minder van die stinkkaas op brood moeten doen omdat onze eetlust bederft.
- Sumatra is onbeschrijflijk groen. Dat moet ook regelmatig bewaterd worden. Dus na 3 dagen zon kun je er donder op zeggen dat er een dagje regen tussen zit. En dan niet het soort regen waar Rob de Nijs over sprak toen hij zei: Zachtjes tikt het regen tegen het zolderraam.’ In Sumatra zou dat zolderraam met kozijn en al weggevaagd zijn bij de hoeveelheden regen die hier in korte tijd uit de hemel valt.

Daar zaten we dan, vrijdagmiddag op het witte zandstrand van Pagang. Het begon eb te worden en het water trok zich terug, zoals het water zich ook terugtrok tijdens de Tsunamie.

We kregen het verhaal te horen van de eigenaar van ons hotel, Ton. Tweede kerstdag. Veel te vroeg worden ze wakker geschud door een aardbeving (later bleek dit dus een zeebeving te zijn). Met een kater van de vorige avond in hun hoofd snellen ze zich naar het strand enkele meters voor hun huis. Alle inwoners van Pagang (50 mensen? 100 mensen?) verzamelden zich op het strand om te zien wat er aan de hand was. Ze zee deed vreemd. Het begon eb te worden op een moment dat het vloed hoorde te zijn. En ook bijzonder snel. Toen werd het weer vloed en het water kwam tot aan de weg, zoals een normale vloed dit hoort te doen. Daarna werd het weer eb, en toen weer vloed. Allemaal in een tijdsbestek van een kwartier ongeveer. De mensen van Pagang verlieten het strand. Alleen Ton en zijn vrouw Marjan bleven op het strand achter. Er was een boot met duikers uit, waar ze ongerust over waren. De vloed kwam weer maar deze keer stopte het water niet bij de weg maar kwam erover heen. Ze renden snel naar achteren, naar hoger gelegen gebied maar het water haalde hun in. Marjan klom snel in een boom en plukte Ton uit het water. Toen het water het hoogste punt had bereikt zwommen ze vlug naar de kant, een berg, zo’n 20 meter verderop. Daarna trok het water zich terug en nam in haar verwoesting alles mee wat los en vast zat. Op de ramen van de tweede verdieping hangt nu een wit stuk tape. Het is zo’n 4 meter boven de grond en geeft aan hoe hoog het water in Pulau Wey is gekomen. Op dit eiland zijn (slechts) 12 doden te betreuren, dit komt voornamelijk omdat Pulau Wey bestaat uit bergen en het water hierdoor werd tegengehouden.

Toen we terugliepen van het strandje naar onze kamer hoorde ik naast mij iemand zeggen: ‘Ik kom jou ook overal tegen.’ Ik kijk opzij in het lachende gezicht van Job. Voor degenen die Job niet kennen, ik ben hem tegengekomen tijdens mijn reis door centraal Amerika en we hebben een tijd lang met onze toenmalige vriendinnen samen gereisd. De kans dat we elkaar hier op een klein strandje in een uithoek van Indonesië ontmoeten is gelijk aan dat Marleen en ik tegelijk tegen elkaar zeggen ‘jij hebt gelijk!’. We dronken een Bintang en smeedden wat plannen. De volgende morgen vertrokken Marleen en ik naar het gebied waar Job en
karina verbleven, een klein uur lopen verderop, Iboih genaamd. Zon, zee en strand. Job en ik zijn ’s middags gaan duiken.

Duiken is feitelijk zwemmen in een groot aquarium en de lol is dat duikers steeds weer een ander aquarium opzoeken omdat daar weer andere soorten vissen zwemmen. Ik had niet anders gedoken dan op Bonaire en was enkel bekend met de flora en fauna van het Caribische gebied. En dus keek ik mijn ogen uit. Het koraal zag eruit om te snoepen. Miljoenen vissen in verscheidene kleuren.

Na de duik was het tijd voor een snack (patat) en kwamen de speelkaarten op tafel. We leerden het kaartspel 1000-en, een soortemetvan rummicub deluxe. Volgens mij hét spel van 2009 want ik zie het overal gespeeld worden. We aten en dronken en ’s avonds gingen wij terug naar ons strand. Er reden geen taxi’s maar we vroegen een vrouw of er nog ‘iets’ richting Pagang ging, de regelneef in haar kwam naar boven. In mum van tijd had ze twee pubers van onder een boom gehaald, de sleutels van een brommer in de hand gedrukt en tegen hun gezegd (geschreeuwd) dat zij ons als de sodemieter naar Pagang moesten brengen. Pronto. Maar wel rustig rijden. De jongens keken beduusd op van hun mobiele telefoon waarmee ze zaten te spelen en snelden zich naar de brommers. De rit van 10 minuten was prettig, rijden over de pikzwarte wegen slechts verlicht door de koplampen van de brommers en het licht van miljoenen sterren.

De volgende dag kwamen Job, Karina, Niels en Joelle bij ons op het strand. Al snel stonden de mannen te ballen in het water en deden 15 kleine Indonesische jongetjes vrolijk mee. De dag was zoals zo’n dag moet zijn. Ontspannen, ongedwongen, veel lezen, veel snorkelen (Marleen heeft 2 schildpadden XXL gezien), frisbeeën, babbelen zzzzzzzz.
(Marleen ging on-ingesmeerd snorkelen en haar billen zijn nu gloedrood verbrand). Einde middag gingen Job en ik volleyballen met de local boys en daarna was het tijd voor Bintang-bier en kaarten. We namen ’s avonds afscheid bij de taxi en daarna vertrokken we naar ons luxe appartement. Die nacht viel de stroom uit. De ventilator krijgt nu maar zo’n 50 volts dus het ding draait op halve kracht. En daarmee besluit ik deze schrijfronde.




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